I’m a bit late in posting these images, but here are some photos of the snow day we had in Seattle last Thursday, Dec. 8. Up here on Phinney Ridge (about 300 feet above sea level) we got perhaps two inches of snow, which lasted about a day, until the rains returned.
Here’s how my winter vegetables looked under that fluffy white quilt, and one post-snow shot that shows how they fared.
It was the best of weather, it was the worst of weather.
Memorial Day Weekend in Seattle will bring up brooding Dickensian thoughts. What should herald the start of summer here often disappoints. When all you want to do is take your kids hiking, go to a music festival, wheel off on a nice long bike ride, or simply just host a BBQ, you have to look to the skies, and judge the depth of the grey.
Why, then, would I start this post so optimistically? The best of weather, by what standards? Well, my Brussels sprouts love it.
At this stage of the year—what I call mid-spring in my catalog of mini-seasons—I am engaged in a garden tug-of-war. Part of me wants to grow the fattest red tomato on the block, so juicy it drips down my shirt. I want big pepper plants heavy with spicy pods. Some years, I even yearn for a stand of corn.
But my muscles yank me back to cool-season crops too, and possibly more to reality. Mid-spring is a time for struggle on the part of my tomato plants, and the peppers can stay under cover or fight for their survival. But it’s a glorious time of growth for cool-season vegetables. They celebrate this dreary holiday weekend weather like twirling hippies at a Phish concert.
And now, when you’re focused solely on getting those hot crops of summer in the ground, let the cool breezes of a maritime spring clue you in: time to give those long-season vegetables of next winter some love.
Here’s a quick list of what to sow now in pots for planting out in June and July:
And here are some things to plant directly in the garden in mid-July for fall and winter eating:
There are many other, shorter-season veggies that can be sown later in the summer and into the fall for fall and winter eating, but for right now, instead of trying to jump-start summer, skip over it and look to fall. Put on a Dead record and rave on with your brassicas.
Final presentation at City People’s
Many Seattle gardeners are mourning the impending loss of City People’s Garden Store on Madison, which got the land sold out from under it for the inevitable mixed-use development. It was the first nursery I used when I moved to Seattle in the mid-1980s, and I still hold it fondly in my mind. When it closes at the end of this year, it will be a major loss for city gardeners. I will miss it.
I’ve been giving a series of edible gardening talks there for years, and my last talk is coming up next weekend. On Sunday, June 5 at 11 a.m. I’ll do a seminar on starting long-season vegetables. Hope you can join me, support the store with some purchases and give City People’s a proper send-off.
In my last post, at the height of a summer hot spell, I thought it would be fun to say “Winter Begins Now” and show the garden with snow on it. Well, the heat has abated, and I’m not in any hurry to slip out of summer mode. However, I am still pushing forward on fall planting.
The Japanese turnips — first sowing July 15, second sowing July 27 — are coming along.
A sowing of beets was less successful, as I had some three-year-old seed. But some of them sprouted, as did a nice row of Rainbow chard.
The first sowing of Brussels sprouts got potted up to 4-inch pots about 10 days ago, so they were ready to be planted out. The second batch is still in pots.
So today I sowed in some more beets, transplanted those Brussels sprouts, sowed two rows of Black Spanish radish and two rows of overwintering red onion.
I covered all the crops except the onions with hoops and floating row cover. This helps shade them a bit if we get another heat wave, but I did it more to keep the pests off the young plants. The white cabbage moth can lay a lot of eggs and wreak havoc on brassicas, and the spinach leaf miner loves to attack the young beets and chard. (Soon I’ll plant fall and overwintering spinach, and will have to cover that too, to thwart the leaf miner.)
Here are some more images from today’s gardening:
With the thermometer on Viagra, we should only mention winter to mentally cool ourselves off, right? Well, that’s a good reason, but as year-round gardeners, it’s also good to think winter now, at the height of summer. It will spur you to be most productive in the garden.
Mostly right now, we are tending our summer crops. I must confess, that’s what has kept me busy, and caused some radio silence on the blogging front. Let me cool you off with these ideas:
With encouragement like that, winter cannot be far away.
Things sprout fast in this weather. I did wait until a respite from the extreme heat of early July, because cool-season crops do not sprout well if the soil is too hot. Plus, it is impossible to keep the seedbed continuously damp during the sprouting period. But with days in the 70s and cool nights, now is a great time for those plants to get started.
Last week I planted fall peas, and they are just starting to push their curvaceous stems through the soil. These will fill in between those “stakes of autumn” in the corner of a front bed, where the spring beets lived.
Brussels sprouts and overwintering broccoli seedlings are cheerily growing in black six-pack pots on a shady patio table. The first-sown seeds from a month ago have progressed to grow sets of true leaves, but my second sowing — again, just over a week ago — sprouted so fast and vigorously that I bet they will catch up.
Another lesson about trying to plant during extreme warmth. I sheltered those pots while the seeds sprouted and hit them daily with water, but still they got a bit stressed. All these plants should be ready for transplanting in early August.
Last weekend I prepared a bed for another sowing of beets and chard. The bed had contained fava beans, which were pulled up in May and shelled and sauted with green garlic. Since then, the bed had sat fallow, covered by the fava stalks. The soil was very dry and clodded, and it took multiple waterings to get it back into usable shape. What a dry time we have had from mid-spring until now.
Finally, a row of collard greens went in on the edge of the now-empty garlic bed. My abundant garlic harvest is now drying in the garage, and the bed is opened up for fall and winter crops. I sometimes start summer-planted crops like collards in flats and transplant, but being covered with floating row cover and watered regularly, these plants can grow just as well in place.
I expect the dry weather to continue into early September, so I am diligently watering all these seedbeds and seedlings. And in those beds that are waiting for fall crops, I’m also continuing with water. I’m hoping to feed the soil foodweb, let the weeds sprout so I can skim those off, and keep the ground the from getting hydrophobic. When I put those fall and winter crops into the soil, I want them to experience the best growth possible.
If this spiking weather pattern continues, they’ll need all the help they can get.
Recently, a gardener asked our Master Gardener clinic why their broccoli didn’t flower. That question comes up regularly, and I’ve studied it in my own garden, with my own successes and failures.
Someone also asked me the other day if it was too late to plant winter brassicas.
Finally, I want to share a tip about what to do with your Brussels sprouts plants this time of year.
So I’ll tackle three brassica topics in this post. Here we go.
Why broccoli didn’t flower
If your spring- or summer-planted broccoli didn’t set its flower buds (the part we eat), it could be due to planting at the wrong time, uneven watering, fertilization issues, planting bad starts or bad treatment of seeds or seedlings.
For summer harvest broccoli, timing is tricky, because you want to plant earlier in spring so you get the crop before the summer heat, but if you plant too early, the broccoli won’t get a robust start. If you plant too late, the heat stresses it. I’ve had best success when planting starts in early to mid-May (or doing a succession of plantings through May). That means you’ll be cutting heads in mid-July and into August.
In my experience, they like a lot of compost, which also helps to regulate moisture. So I put them in a well-composted bed, and add a top-dressing a few weeks after planting. I’ll feed once with a balanced complete organic fertilizer, about a month after planting.
Fertilizing with a lot of nitrogen as they’re trying to form heads could prevent the plant from flowering, and probably just produce more leaves.
For overwintering broccoli like purple sprouting (my favorite), I start the seeds in late May/early June, then plant them out in August. Also tricky to keep them consistently watered during that seedling stage. I top-dress with compost in mid-September, then lay a bed of straw mulch over the soil for the winter. They’ll send up a small central head by early March, followed by sprouts.
I don’t grow fall-harvest broccoli often, but I believe that it’s on the same planting and transplanting schedule as sprouting broccoli, but will produce heads in late September. I found the harvest to be small, so now I just concentrate on the sprouting ones.
Brussels sprouts ‘tip’
On to the Brussels sprouts. If you have winter harvest sprouts in the garden now, you’ve probably noticed small sprouts forming along the leaf axils. Also, you’ll probably see a denser set of leaves forming like at the top of the plant. If you cut off that growing tip, the sprouts should develop faster and more robustly. That’s because the plant is now putting all its energy into the sprouts rather than the new leaves.
Here are photos showing this cut on one of my plants:
Planting brassicas now?
One final note about whether you could be planting brassicas now. The answer is, not really.Most brassicas should be planted in May and June, and transplanted in August, or at the latest in early September.
However! If you can find healthy kale plants still in the nurseries, you could put them in, but I would not expect much production from them over the fall and winter.